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Specialty Stones and "Special Effect" Stones in Vintage Costume Jewelry

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Have you ever wondered if that unusual stone in your vintage jewelry had a name? Is it rare? Are there more like it out there? What if you have to find a replacement for it? Would you know what to call it or what term to use to search for it on the internet?

The list below will help you identify your unusual and unique stones. Specialty stones include but are not limited to the types identified below. We will include more as time passes.

   
Art Glass
Because stones used in jewelry are often complex and could fit into multiple categories, often times interesting glass cabs are described best as art glass. When you can narrow it down to the most prominent defining characteristic, it is best to do so. Some common terms used for this broad category are presented below.
   
Avventura (in Italian - that's 2 "v's", not a "w"): Also known as Avventurino or aventurine (like the stone which was said to be named after this type of glass.) You can see in the photo to the right that it is made by working copper filings into the glass. It produces a sparkling effect.

Plastic

   
Moonglow Lucite: These cabs look similar to moonstone however they are plastic. They do have a certain "glow" about them, as the name suggests. Some people just call these faux or simulated moonstones. This effect can also be seen in glass cabochons.
Confetti Lucite - A plastic stone with embedded materials resembling confetti.
Lucite (jelly belly) Stones - Although lucite isn't really considered a "specialty stone" it is harder to find and does have features that set it apart from regular cabs. For instance, it will sometimes be seen embedded with rhinestones or "reverse carved" as shown in the picture.
Molded Plastic - A plastic stone that is formed in a mold. Many other materials such as glass and porcelain can also be mold formed. You may see evidence of the plastic spilling slightly over the mold as seen in the flower on the right.
Swarovski Special Effect and Special Shape Stones
Swarovski crystal colors are named according to the color of the glass itself as well as the effect that is applied to it. Some of the ones more commonly found in vintage jewelry are shown below. For a complete color guide click here. Or for a definition of Swarovski colors click here.
   
Margaritas (shape) - Faceted crystal flower.
Rivoli (cut) - second image is from a Kenneth Lane pave flower brooch.

Aurum (effect) - A shiny gold effect that utilizes real gold in the formula. An example of these are shown in the second photo with a satin or moonglow glass stone.

Watermelon Stones (effect): These glass stones resemble the colors of tourmaline. The term "watermelon" comes from when this stone has a pink inside with a green trim although both genuine and faux tourmaline can be found in many different varieties of color combinations. Known in Swarovski terms as Vitrail Medium.

Aurora Borealis (effect): An iridescent coating is applied to the stone. Also known as AB or when applied on crystal, CAB. This effect has a "rainbow" look as it emits many different colors. Probably the most common effect seen in vintage jewelry.
General / Miscellaneous

Baroque - An irregularly shaped stone or pearl.

Baroque Navette, Moon Rock or Lava Rock Stones: These stones are bumpy molded glass or plastic that sometimes have an iridescent coating or painted tips.

Fruit Salad Stones: Different resources say different things about this type of stone. The universal feature is that it is a stone that is molded. The true definition of fruit salad is a glass stone that is molded in the style of Cartier such as what you see in the first photo but in colors of blue, green and red. Additional sources say that it can be plastic and can be anything from molded leaves to abstract shapes. Jewelry made in this style is also sometimes called "tutti frutti."

*image on the left courtesy of
Beth of Emerald City Vintage
Costume Jewelry

Givré: The word Givré is French for "frost over". These stones almost look as if they have a frozen river running through them and come in many different colors. This Florenza earring has a good example of this type of glass stone.
Goldstone: A brown glass flecked with metallic particles such as copper or chromic oxide. It is now made in other colors.
Iris Stones - Also sometimes referred to as "rainbow" stones, are glass or crystal and have stripes of pink, blue, and green running through them.

*image courtesy of Sheree
of jeweltopia.net

Frosted Glass - Appears as a matte satin finish. Foil, which is sometimes used underneath the stone makes it glow. These particular molded glass stones are found in vintage Austrian fruit jewelry.
Cat's Eye Glass - A glass stone that resembles cat's eye gemstones in that it has a line of iridescence running through it much like the eye of a cat at night time.
Molded Glass - Is a glass that has been shaped by a mold to create a design like the cabochon from a Celebrity bracelet to the right. This particular cab has also been painted.
Shoebutton - From our own research, we believe that these stones (often found in Trifari jewelry) are named after a fruit that the Ardisia elliptica plant grows. The cabochons are indented to allow a small rhinestone to sit in the center.

Additional Resources (links will open in a new window)
Swarovski Stone Effects
Swarovski Stone Shapes
Swarovski Crystal Beads Coating Chart
Where to find unusual and hard to find replacement stones and findings:

Matthew Ribarich Antique & Costume Jewelry Stones - Replacement Stones

B'Sue Boutiques

Jan's Jewelry Supplies - Stones, beads, settings, findings

The Family Jools - Selection of Fancy Stones & Artglass Cabs

Closeout Jewelry Findings from Wolf E. Myrow - Wolf E. Myrow is the premier close out dealer for stones, findings, beads and accessories for the jewelry and fashion trade. Wholesale only.
Earthly Adornments - Vintage cabs and beads
The Beadin' Path - Vintage lucite, pendants, sequins and cabochons

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