Vintage Costume Jewelry Information, Juliana or DeLizza & Elster
 

Vintage Costume Jewelry

 

 


Vintage Costume Jewelry Q&A

Is It Vintage? What Is It Made Of? How Do You Know?

Your Questions Answered

*These questions were asked by our newsletter subscribers in a special edition that encouraged readers to let us know what they wanted to know about vintage costume jewelry. Unfortunately we can not respond to all the questions we receive by email as the amount is too large. Join our newsletter for valuable information, special deals and new offerings by VintageCostumeJewelry.com!

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  1. What is Vintage?
  2. Determining Metals Used in Vintage Costume Jewelry
  3. Gold-toned Metal and Vermeil

1. Question: What is Vintage?

"I heard someone say that vintage the term for items 20 years old. Is this correct?"

Answer: The term "vintage" is often misunderstood by dealers and collectors. When dealing with vintage costume jewelry, the term usually applies to an item that is 20+ years old. Many experts agree that the term "antique" can be applied to vintage costume jewelry that is 50+ years old. This may be for two reasons. For one, the field of collecting costume jewelry is fairly new. Secondly, costume jewelry does not tend to last as long as other antiques might due to moisture damage, vigorous use, and quality of construction or materials used.

2. Question: Determining Metals Used in Vintage Costume Jewelry.

"Also how do you determine if something is pot metal, base metal, nickel silver or white metal? Is rhodium always identified by the shine?"

Answer: Many times a metal can be determined by experience. This means that it is important to view, hold, and feel as many pieces of jewelry as you can and the differences will become apparent by inspection alone.

Pot Metal Dictionary Definition: An inexpensive alloy of poor quality, usually containing lead, used especially in making castings: cheap jewelry made from plated pot metal.

Pot metal is a heavy, thicker metal that looks somewhat like pewter. It is often referred to as "base metal" or "white metal' and was used on jewelry in the early 20th century.

Example Of Pot Metal:

Nickel Silver Dictionary Definition: A silvery, hard, corrosion-resistant, ductile, malleable alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel, used in tableware and as a structural material for hospital and restaurant equipment. Also called German silver.

Nickel Silver or German Silver does not contain any silver at all. It is used in costume jewelry as a substitute for silver and is often plated with silver. If you see the mark EPNS on jewelry it means that it is Electroplated Nickel Silver. It was invented in the early 19th century.

Rhodium Dictionary Definition: A hard, durable, silvery-white metallic element that is used to form high-temperature alloys with platinum and is plated on other metals to produce a durable corrosion-resistant coating.

Rhodium is a very smooth, shiny, silver colored metal that does not tarnish like silver.

Example of Rhodium plated metal:



3. Question: Gold-toned Metal and Vermeil

"I have been using the term "goldtone" when I don't know what the finish is. I have pins which are marked "sterling" but have a gold finish. Is that vermeil?"

Answer: It is very important that you use the term "gold-toned" when describing a gold colored metal if you are not sure what the gold is. It is unethical to mislead buyers into thinking that they are purchasing, for instance, a "gold" brooch when in fact there is no gold content or it is just gold filled or plated.

Vermeil Dictionary Definition: Gilded silver, bronze, or copper.

It makes sense that if your item is marked sterling but has a gold finish, it is probably gold plated, washed, or filled. Adding a metal of less value over top of one of more value (sterling) does not seem likely. But what are the differences between Gold Plated, Gold Washed and Gold Filled?

Gold Plated items must have layer of gold that is less than 1/20th of the total weight.

Gold Wash is a very thin coating of gold that is applied to the base metal.

Gold Filled items must have a layer of gold that is at least 1/20th of the total weight.


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